Tuesday, June 29, 2010

INSPIRATION Gucci SS//2010... Haakan Yildirim FW 2010//11

The ANDAM Fashion Award committee 2010 announced yesterday Hakaan Yildirim [right] as the winning designer...Congratulation, ...also to Gucci [left].




Sunday, June 27, 2010

INTO THE MOVIES... Ralph Lauren and Woody Allen

Another example of how fashion and cinema cooperate with each other can be found in Woody Allen's movie from 1977 'Annie Hall'. All the outfits worn by Diane Keaton are created by Ralph Lauren, who was one of the first to launch the famous 'executive' look of these years.
During the 70ties, as more women took on highly paid jobs traditionally held by men, 'executive' dress for women became part of the general fashion picture. It consisted of tailored suits and jackets, often in pinstripe fabric, worn either with a men's shirt and tie or knotted silk scarf at the neck.

Monday, June 21, 2010

INTO THE MOVIES... Giorgio Armani and Paul Schrader

We all are aware of one of the most famous collaborations between cinema and fashion, which is 80ties 'American Gigolo' directed by Paul Schrader. The entire wardrobe of Richard Gere is designed by Giorgio Armani. But, this is not the only time a cooperation like this took place....soon other examples....

Tuesday, June 15, 2010

INSPIRATION L'Amant 1992... ROCHAS SS//2010

Marco Zanini for Rochas got inspired by the movie "L'Amant" in style and styling [left, right]..."The Lover", originally released in France as "L'Amant", is a 1992 drama produced directed by Jean-Jaques Annaud. Based on the semi-autobiographical novel by Marguerite Duras, the film details the illicit affair between a teenage French girl and a wealthy Chinese man in 1929 French Indochina. In the screenplay written by Annaud and Gérard Brach, the girl's age is changed from 15 to 18 and is portrayed by actress Jane March, who turned eighteen shortly after filming began.

Monday, June 14, 2010

INSPIRATION Thierry Mugler 1979... LOUIS VUITTON FW 2008//9

...similarities in color, texture and hair/ hat style ...
Thierry Mugler [1948] is a fashion designer, photographer and creator of a fashion design company of the same name. Mugler's early training was as a ballet dancer, but he also studied design and created garments for friends at the same time. He moved to Paris in 1970 and worked as a window-dresser, designing clothing "on the side". He launched his first line Café de Paris in 1973, and founded his own label for women two years later, to be followed by designs for men in 1978.

 Mugler's work over the next two decades had a style that was very much of its time: Shoulders were wide and padded; waists were wasp-like. Prints were banished: Mugler's clothes came in solid, dominating colors. Collars had exaggerated points or flamelike cutouts. The insect kingdom was a constant influence, as were the people of film noir. In his most extreme runway garments, PVC was often used, as were space and robot themes.




Wednesday, June 9, 2010

INSPIRATION 'The devil wears Prada' 2006... PRADA FW 2010//11

...I could not believe it when I found this match!
The movie 'The devil wears Prada' [left] seams to have inspired Prada for their FW 2010//11 collection and this 'cerulean' sweater outfit [right]...

The scene of the picture remains as a memorable moment, when editor Miranda Priestley (Meryl Streep) literally dressed down the back-talking assistant Andrea (Anne Hathaway) after the girl referred to fashion accoutrements as ''stuff...'':

"This... "stuff"......? Oh, ok.... I see, you think this has nothing to do with you....
You go to your closet and you select out, oh I don't know, that lumpy blue sweater, for instance, because you're trying to tell the world that you take yourself too seriously to care about what you put on your back.
But what you don't know is that that sweater is not just blue, it's not turquoise, it's not lapis, it's actually cerulean.
You're also blithely unaware of the fact that in 2002, Oscar De La Renta did a collection of cerulean gowns.
And then I think it was Yves St Laurent, ... wasn't it, who showed cerulean military jackets? And then cerulean quickly showed up in the collections of 8 different designers.
Then it filtered down through the department stores and then trickled on down into some tragic casual corner where you, no doubt, fished it out of some clearance bin.
However, that blue represents millions of dollars and countless jobs and so it's sort of comical how you think that you've made a choice that exempts you from the fashion industry when, in fact, you're wearing the sweater that was selected for you by the people in this room. From a pile of stuff.''


Monday, June 7, 2010

INSPIRATION Babe Paley 1949... PRADA FW 2008//9

...inspiration in color and elegance.....Babe Paley [left] and Prada FW 2008//9 [center, right]...
Barbara "Babe" Cushing Mortimer Paley [1915- 1978] was an American socialite and style icon. Paley worked as a fashion editor for Vogue in New York City when she met and married oil heir Stanley Grafton Mortimer Jr. in 1940."Babe" Mortimer was named to the best-dressed list in 1945 and 1946. Her position at Vogue gave her access to designer clothes, often given in exchange for Babe's high profile and glamorous image. After her divorce of her first husband, in 1946 she met  William S. Paley, the founder of CBS. Paley was phenomenally wealthy, with an interest in the arts and a desire to be a part of New York's café society. Babe had a circle of high-society friends that included author Truman Capote and fellow socialite and style icon Slim Keith. 
Capote included Paley and Keith in his group of "swans" (glamorous New York socialite women) along with Gloria Guinness, Marella Agnelli and C.Z. Guest. Paley famously dropped Capote as a friend when excerpts of his much-touted work in progress, "Answered Prayers", revealed the gossipy confidences of many of New York's elite. Long after her death, Babe Paley remains an icon in the world of fashion and style. “Babe Paley had only one fault,” commented her one-time friend Truman Capote. “She was perfect. Otherwise, she was perfect.”

Sunday, June 6, 2010

INSPIRATION Robert Piguet 1949... BALENCIAGA FW 2008//9

...beautifully draped peplums!...Dorian Leigh photographed by Richard Avedon in a Robert Piguet dress from 1949 [center] and two outfits from Balanciaga's FW 2008//9 collection [left, right].
Robert Piguet [1901-1953] headed his own couture house for nearly two decades. He learned his craft in two of the more important houses of the early 20th century, Poiret and Redfern. Both houses were fashionable and influential, but they espoused widely divergent philosophies of fashion and appealed to very different customers. In developing his own style, Piguet combined the imagination and awareness of Poiret at his peak with the quality and stability of Redfern.
Like Poiret, Piguet understood and employed the links between high fashion and the arts. His collections often reflected his sensitivity to the cultural environment of the moment. An example is his response to the historical romanticism of the 1930s, an important movement fed by theatrical and motion picture costume dramas. These provided Piguet with inspiration for everything from suits to evening gowns.
It might be said that Piguet's most lasting contributions to postwar fashion were the designers he employed and encouraged. Dior, Givenchy, and Balmain each worked for or sold designs to Piguet in the 1930s and 1940s, and went on to open houses of their own. Whether Piguet hired them because an inherent romanticism in their work agreed with his fashion sense, or they learned from him traits which each would use to advantage in his own business is not a matter of record. 
Piguet's wisdom in choosing able designers, however, was more than matched by his skill in maintaining the identity of his house and collections, no matter who produced the actual sketches.

Saturday, June 5, 2010

INSPIRATION Vogue 1971... VOGUE 2008

...photo shoot Vogue Italia 1971 [left]...and Vogue Italia 2008 [right]...


Wednesday, June 2, 2010

NEW ENTRIES...

Please welcome this seasons new creative directors at...

THEORY:
Olivier Theyskens
HERMèS:
Christophe Lemaire
EMANUEL UNGARO:
Giles Deacon
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN:
Sarah Burton

BILL BLASS:
Jeffrey Monteiro

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

INSPIRATION Miu Miu SS//2006... MIU MIU SS//2010

Prada's little sister gets inspired by herself: here the similarities of SS//2006 [the lefts] and the latest collection SS//2010 [the rights].

INSPIRATION Scarface 1983... HUSSEIN CHALAYAN SS//2010

Some of the most beautiful outfits for an early 80ties costume research can be found in Brian de Palma's 'Scarface' from 1983. The scenes and dresses of Elvira, Michelle Pfeiffer [left] belong to a photo shoot and not really to an epic crime movie.
This might have been a thought behind Hussein Chalayan's collection for SS//2010...similarities in detailing and styling [right].