The footwear presented by Rei Kawakubo in her wonderful Comme des Garçons 'Wonderland' collection for FW 2009||10 [left], might have been inspired by Rene Magritte's surreal painting 'Le Modele Rouge' from 1935... and might have been an inspiration for Phoebe Philo's shoes for Céline SS||2013 [right].
Monday, February 25, 2013
Sunday, February 24, 2013
Gianni Versace's FW 1997||98 Haute Couture collection [click here] has been an inspiration for Donatella's collection for Versace for FW2012||13 [left]… and then for FW 2013||14 we see some similarities also at Fausto Puglisi [right].
Friday, February 22, 2013
Thursday, February 21, 2013
A beautiful Balenciaga outfit from the SS||2013 collection [left], the last one designed by creative director Nicolas Ghesquière… has been chosen to be a Zara rip-off within the same season [right]. Thanks, I guess.
Wednesday, February 20, 2013
The coolest bag from the FW 2013||14 New York fashion week is available right now 'straight from the catwalk' as a trunkshow preorder on ModaOperandi.com. The Alexander Wang Racketeer Sling Shoulder Bag is an accordion-inspired handbag that features two envelope-style exterior pockets, a single top handle, and a detachable crossbody strap [1255 Euro]. I just love its shape and the different ways in which you can wear it.
Tuesday, February 19, 2013
Please welcome this seasons new creative directors at...
Monday, February 18, 2013
The presentation of the spectaculary staged Marc Jacobs runway show, for me, kind of saved this years kind of commercial NYFW. I love the sensorial and emotional artwork of Olafur Eliasson, and the recreation of ‘The Weather Project’ from 2003 really got under my skin. But what about the fashion that was shown? It was comfortably simple and nice to watch, but something was off. Though one might not be able to compare every single outfit, overall, the Marc Jacobs' FW 2013||14 collection [right] gave me the impression to be an homage to the creative work of Italian designer Miuccia Prada.
There were several approaches throughout the show that referenced influential phrases from Miuccia, from the gold brocade pajama collection of Prada SS||2002 to the duchesse looks from SS||2007. The coat volumes presented were eerily similar to those of the Miu Miu SS||2013 and to Prada’s fall winter campaign for FW 1995||96 [left] photographed by Peter Lindbergh, featuring the beautiful Kristen McMenamy.
Sunday, February 17, 2013
Olafur Eliasson at The Tate Modern in 2003 [left] becomes the backdrop for Marc Jacobs FW 2013||14 show [right]: Marc Jacobs continues to bring contemporary art into the fashion world, kindly helping the fashion victim crowd become educated in something more than just the art of wearing things well... I just love that philanthropic aspect of Mr. Jacobs’ work. This season he reminded us of the wonderful art installation ‘The Weather Project’, exhibited in 2003 at the Tate Modern in London by Olafur Eliasson, by recreating a huge sun and the same light effect for his runway by stage designer Stefan Beckman.
Saturday, February 16, 2013
As a follower of my blog you know that I analyze current fashion trends based on their historical references and sources of inspiration. I discuss the process of creating collections by visualizing the cyclical nature of fashion and also the importance of being educated about fashion in order to understand it entirely. But when does inspiration end and pure imitation, an undisguised copy of the creative work of another, begin?
Seeking inspiration and integrating it into the creative process is a crucial aspect of a fashion designer’s work. These inspirations are imaginative 'inputs' that visualize the direction and the intent of a collection in development. They have become necessary to begin the creative process and later, so as not to lose direction. In fact, no collection today exists without performing this kind of research through the past, and that is leading to a huge probability of similarities or even imitation.
Of course, repetition is simply inevitable because the basic language of fashion has already been defined during the 20th century. Every silhouette, color combination and fabrication has a meaning that in our minds identifies with and belongs to a certain period of time, a specific mood, or to a explicit sociocultural environment. For example, when we see a plain A line short silver dress we think immediately, the sixties!
There is a strong difference between an empty imitation and an inspiration that has been used in the design process. Once designers have done their research, they are supposed to evolve it through their own creativity, adding a great deal of their own personality. That's how research can start a creative process. In the remix world of today a true designer turns the known elements of fashion into something new, through a strong personal style and an eclectic mix of features until something unexpected is generated.
Doing interesting things today is challenging, and I really enjoy seeing how some designers with tremendous talent manage to create something that can emote without using references in the obvious way. But, of course there are uncountable examples where this is not happening, where the fashion designer actually fails to be original. Without further elaboration we are left with nothing but a copy, spoken in a language the designer simply didn't understand. That raises the question of what exactly the fashion designer is paid for? or why a woman should spend an enormous amount of money for a branded product that actually is only an empty and meaningless reproduction.
I think that newness and creativity is possible in fashion, even if plenty of things have been seen and done already. It depends simply on the amount of talent and creative effort designers put into their work. If fashion sometimes seems not to create anything interesting or maybe, to quote Cathy Horyn's blog ON THE RUNWAY "…The problem is there are too many labels and not enough genuine talent…"
Friday, February 15, 2013
I can get the necessity of having a nice co-ordination in your store between the menswear and the womenswear section, but turning a brand’s womenswear show in the exact copy of your menswear runway show, … not so much. For some time now this has become the modus operandi of Tommy Hilfiger, which I can find cute just for so long.
Thursday, February 14, 2013
Sixties modernism continues to be “a thing” this season: Marisa Berenson photographed by Irving Penn for American Vogue in 1965 [left]… looks amazingly similar to Victoria Beckham’s color- blocked look for FW 2013||14.
Tuesday, February 12, 2013
I really enjoyed seeing the show of Thom Browne FW 2013||14, especially because New York seemed to have a really slow start this season. But it is quite difficult to see his outfits and not to draw some connections, at least styling wise, to Rei Kawakubo’s Comme Des Garçons “Wonderland” collection from 2009.
Monday, February 11, 2013
Diane Von Furstenberg photographed by Roger Prigent in 1972, wearing her wonderful signature design and invention: the printed wrap dress, which instantly became a symbol of power and freedom for an entire generation of women in the seventies [left]. Yesterday, more than 40 years later, Cara Delavigne wears it well for DVF FW 2013||14, and even capturing the same spirit in her expression as she parades down the runway.
Sunday, February 10, 2013
A wonderful picture created with the technique of overexposure by Erwin Blumenfeld in 1950 for the Vogue US cover [left]... and the Jil Sander advertisement for SS||2011 photographed by Willy Vanderperre [right].
Saturday, February 9, 2013
Thursday, February 7, 2013
One of the most iconic images in fashion photography, taken in 1967 by Franco Rubartelli for Vogue US featuring German model Veruschka von Lehndorff [left], has been taken very much into account by MAC cosmetics' 'Après Chic' collection adverisment campaign [right], created by amazing make-up artist Val Garland .
Tuesday, February 5, 2013
A wonderful picture taken by Man Ray in 1931 and developed with the solarisation technique for which the American Dadaism and Surrealism artist was famous for [left]… and the same effect created for the Stella McCartney SS||2003 advertisement campaign by photographer David Vasilievic [right].
The solarisation technique is a phenomenon in photography in which the image, recorded on a negative or on a photographic print, is wholly or partially reversed in tone; dark areas appear light or light areas appear dark. Man Ray perfected the technique, which was accidentally discovered in his darkroom by his assistant. Man Ray [1890- 1976] was an modernist artist who has produced major works in a variety of media, but he was best known in the art world for his avant-garde photography and photograms [which he called "rayographs" in reference to himself].
Sunday, February 3, 2013
For me, the most beautiful and refined jewelry ever is the one created by ATELIER VM in Milan| Italy. The three female artisans and designers Viola Naj-Oleari, Marta Caffarelli and Keiko Yakushi create exquisite jewels with a light and unique style: sober and delicate lines, ironic and visionary, thin yet flashy... the structure remains always one of lightness and poetry and brings grace to those who wear them. Each piece of jewelry created in the Atelier VM has a name and a personal thought, and that's also what makes it so special.
Saturday, February 2, 2013
I just love the minimalistic|sporty style of Prada's SS||1996 collection, its advertisement campaign photographed by Peter Lindbergh featuring beautiful model Carolyn Murphy [left]... and the development of that collection into something new for SS||2013 [right].