tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-52489492028066395122024-03-13T21:12:38.072+01:00INTO THE FASHIONInto the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comBlogger573125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-29448849718846084782017-05-06T23:19:00.000+02:002017-05-06T23:21:17.639+02:00INSPIRATION John Galliano SS 2011… Gucci FW 2017||18<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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John Galliano for his Spring Summer 2011 collection has been inspired by the twenties con artist Maria Lani who persuaded the era’s leading artists to paint her portrait for a film she claimed their work would star in. Then, she sold them all and escaping to America without trace. Galliano made every model a separate artwork, with “each outfit in this collection as individual as each portrait”. Individual outfit fashion shows are being a thing since a while now, and Gucci is one of the brands, that through the work of Alessandro Michele, has turned this way of showing into perfection. For FW 2017||18 the styling of one of the 119 looks Gucci showed in Milan might have been inspired by Galliano.</div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-17737942171601028402016-12-06T21:40:00.000+01:002016-12-06T21:44:17.111+01:00INSPIRATION Francesco Scognamiglio SS||2009... Saint Laurent SS||2017<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Anthony Vaccarello’s debut show as new creative director for Saint Laurent was one of the most awaited this season, alongside the Maria Grazia Chiuri one for Christian Dior. To be Hedi Slimane’s replacement must have been a fairly demanding venture for the Italian-Belgian fashion designer who has decided to close his own line to concentrate on the new responsibility. For the SS||2017 collection [right] Vaccarello has been widely inspired by the eighties and some archive pieces from Yves Saint Laurent. As for the fierce one-silver-covered-nipple-out styling, a particular look from Francesco Scognamiglio’s SS||2009 show [left] might have been an inspiration.</div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-33686280697649307572016-10-12T19:59:00.001+02:002016-10-12T19:59:25.464+02:00INTO THE SAME IDEA… Marni and Loewe SS||2017<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Gatherings and drawstrings were seen on various shows for SS||2017, but nowhere as beautiful as at Marni [left] and at Loewe [right]. Consuelo Castiglioni for Marni created asymmetries of pleats gathered by nautical ropes and over-did-it beautifully with huge billowy sleeves and hip-widening poacher-pocket bags, all in a fresh mint tone. Also Jonathan Anderson’s Loewe suggested a pastel colour for his peasant dress with balloon sleeves full of gathers created by drawstrings. A lot of volume, but more is more and less is a bore regarding the volumes this season.</div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-3323927449497939682016-10-09T21:20:00.002+02:002016-10-09T23:27:14.997+02:00INSPIRATION Demna Gvasalia… Jil Sander SS||2017<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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In my previous post I called it the Vetements effect, but it should be rather be the Demna Gvasalia effect. Many designers for SS||2017 could not do less than being influenced by the new wave created by Demna and his creative team during the last year, through both, the collections of Vetements and Balenciaga. In addition to silhouette inspirations from Vetements’ FW 2016||17 [left above], Rodolfo Paglialunga seems to have taken for his Jil Sander SS||2017 [right above and below] also other collections designed by Demna into consideration, for example in terms of styling, his creative direction debut at Balenciaga for FW 2016|17 [left below].</div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-66052218231880470362016-10-07T21:38:00.004+02:002016-10-07T21:51:24.734+02:00INSPIRATION Vetements SS||2016… Mulberry SS||2017<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The Vetements effect this season is all around us and this is just one of many posts that will follow. Gvasalia's collections are causing a huge ripple effect in the the creative work of designers, in the industry and the consumers. Nobody and nothing is safe, from silhouettes to colours to garment types to styling and to color palettes, it is out there. In this case the asymmetric shirt-dress from SS||2016 [left] might have inspired the ensemble designed by Mulberry’s Johnny Coca [right] for SS||2017.</div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_aXwPL2hA-g/V_f8OT_9QZI/AAAAAAAAHA4/AhWiLN2vYbkdVEfOdBfF8XYkn6_82-kYQCLcB/s1600/%2BINSPIRATION%2BVetements%2BSS__2016%25E2%2580%25A6%2BMulberry%2BSS__2017.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-_aXwPL2hA-g/V_f8OT_9QZI/AAAAAAAAHA4/AhWiLN2vYbkdVEfOdBfF8XYkn6_82-kYQCLcB/s640/%2BINSPIRATION%2BVetements%2BSS__2016%25E2%2580%25A6%2BMulberry%2BSS__2017.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-49227896998985478532016-10-02T16:50:00.001+02:002016-10-02T17:33:01.401+02:00INSPIRATION Yves Klein 1960... Céline SS||2017<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Fresh from the runway comes an eye catching art inspiration transplanted by Phoebe Philo from canvas on graceful flowing gowns. <span style="background-color: white; font-family: inherit; font-size: inherit; font-style: inherit; font-variant-caps: inherit; font-variant-ligatures: inherit; font-weight: inherit; text-align: left;">Todays Céline show was all about body shapes and volumes, therefore the electric blue Yves Klein print [right] stands out like an anthem to the concept of the collection. </span>The blue body shape is inspired by the painting series “Anthropometrie de l’époque bleue” from 1960 [left], produced by having nude women douse themselves in his signature blue paint before they imprinted and dragged their bodies across canvases in front of an audience. To see the performance please <b><a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqLwA0yinWg" target="_blank">click here</a></b>. I wonder if Philo got the inspiration after visiting this years "Performing for the Camera" exhibition at the Tate Modern where many Yves Klein performances were documented. </div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-25832042923386888542016-09-30T21:55:00.001+02:002016-09-30T22:03:36.826+02:00INSPIRATION Issey Miyake Pleats Please.... Jil Sander SS||2017<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Rodolfo Paglialunga has been the head of Jil Sander for two years now and in my opinion he, together with Raf Simons, is one of the creative directors who understand Jiline’s design DNA. But is he already out of original ideas? The faux pas to get so close [right] to one of fashion’s most recognisable designs: the Pleats Please of Issey Miyake [left], comes quiet as a surprise. So far only fast fashion houses dared to copy this Japanese creation, first launched in 1993. Made from single pieces of high quality 100% polyester fabric, the innovation behind Pleats Please is that clothes are first cut and sewn together two-and-a-half to three times larger than the finished garments. Individual pieces are hand-fed into a heat press sandwiched between two sheets of paper. The garment then emerges with permanent pleats.</div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-48686586685354249262016-09-25T11:23:00.000+02:002016-09-25T11:24:06.026+02:00INTO THE ARCHIVES... Bottega Veneta 1980 and Bottega Veneta SS||2017<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Bottega Veneta celebrating their 50th anniversary was a great occasion to go back into the archives. The German creative director Tomas Maier made a connection to one of the iconic moments of Bottega Veneta, Lauren Hutton carrying an intrecciato woven clutch bag in the 1980 movie ‘American Gigolo’. It's been reproduced as a company milestone re-edition among 14 other bags from the archive. We usually connect this movie another Italian brand, since Richard Gere’s wardrobe was entirely designed by Giorgio Armani.</div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-16979470146459998742016-09-24T11:02:00.000+02:002016-09-24T11:02:27.369+02:00INSPIRATION F.C. Gundlach 1966... Gareth Pugh SS||2017<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The German photographer F.C. Gundlach is regarded as the most important fashion photographer of West Germany’s early post-war period. His pictures are often reduced to the essentials, clear in structure and prioritising the precision of communication. His images meld emotional and rational elements in a unique visual language.That’s maybe why his iconic image from 1966 of model Brigitte Bauer wearing op art swimwear by designer Sinz Vouliagmeni [left] seems like an inspiration picture for the visually extremely structured SS||2017 collection of Gareth Pugh [right].<br />
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-8634327579174504292016-06-26T00:15:00.002+02:002016-06-26T00:17:43.905+02:00INSPIRATION Francesco Scognamiglio FW 2016||17... Christian Dior pre SS||2017<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Christian Dior has finally found its new creative director. Maria Grazia Chiuri of Valentino has been named, becoming the first woman to lead the brand in its 70 year history. It was about time, since Christian Dior’s womenswear collections have suffered after the departure of Raf Simons. The recent pre SS||2017 collection [right] for example showed some similarities to jackets designed by the Francesco Scognamiglio the season before [left]. Scognamiglio is an amazing Italian designer who will debut his first Haute Couture show next week in Paris.</div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-70642957839575815182016-03-06T21:23:00.002+01:002016-03-06T21:24:51.362+01:00INTO THE SAME IDEA... Prada and Loewe FW 2016||17<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Miuccia Prada [left] and Jonathan Anderson for Loewe [right] elevate handbags to a new status level and to the ultimate accessory by making it a piece of jewellery. Not longer to hold in our hands or dangling from our wrists, for FW 2016||17 the two designers propose to wear purses as carefully crafted and adorned pendants, considerably sized, on short necklaces. As if we needed another reason to buy bags...</div>
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Massimo Giorgetti for Emilio Pucci, has plenty of archive material to play with, and that is what he has been doing since appointed creative director of the Italian heritage brand [LVMH] in 2015. For the location of his pre-fall collection FW 20116||17 shoot [right] he also got inspired by an iconic photograph from 1967 [left]. This picture, showing a group of models wearing the distinctive Pucci patterns, has been taken on the rooftop of palazzo Pucci by Philippe Le Tellier with the background being the Santa Maria del Fiore cathedral.</div>
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For some time now I'm noticing some resemblance between the collections of these two designers. Just that Francesco Scognamiglio is always some seasons ahead with his designs. Once again [<b><i><a href="http://www.intothefashion.com/2014/08/inspiration-francesco-scognamiglio-fw.html" target="_blank">click here</a></i></b>] I have found a very strong similarity between the designs of Scognamiglio [left] and the ones from Balmain [right]. Olivier Rousting must really like his body of work, but we all know ‘Italians do it better!’</div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-90563207637437654322015-10-11T21:40:00.001+02:002015-10-11T21:42:33.971+02:00INSPIRATION 'The Birth' by Leigh Bowery... Rick Owens SS||2016 <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The performance 'The Birth' by legendary Leigh Bowery and his wife Nicola Bateman [left] might have been an inspiration to Rick Owens SS||2016 collection [right], a tribute to female strength. In his show women were carrying other women in a beautiful physical symbiosis that wanted to express selflessness, community and supportiveness. Very different from Leigh’s concept of parturition, but visually very similar.</div>
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Well, this collection might be an exploration for Alexander Wang, but more likely into the archives and work of Nicoloas Ghesquière for Balenciaga [left]. From BoF by Tim Blanks: ‘This could have been a lame duck collection for Alexander Wang, but that wasn’t the way he approached it at all. “Let’s do something people would expect least,” he told himself. Ruffles, lace, feathers, “things no one associates with me, things I’ve always wanted to venture into, like romanticism, sensuality, overt femininity,” an ebullient Wang declared after his Balenciaga send-off on Friday [right].' </div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-66814343190774087012015-09-21T21:36:00.001+02:002015-09-21T21:45:31.012+02:00INSPIRATION Rochas FW 2015||16... J.W. Anderson SS||2016<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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The wonderful show of J.W. Anderson, presented this week in London, showed some remarkable volumes and shapes, including enormous mutton sleeves and oversized bra details adorned with fluffy ruches [right]. A similar bra design appeared already last season in Alessandro Dell'Acqua's Rochas opening outfit [right]. There might be a trend starting....</div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-76804334033359082902015-08-09T21:33:00.000+02:002015-08-09T21:34:54.672+02:00INSPIRATION Jil Sander FW 2012||13… Christian Dior HC FW 2015||16 <div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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I loved the 50ties inspired collections Raf Simons has created in the last seasons as creative director at Jil Sander [left]. Once he had left and moved forward to Christian Dior it seemed clear that those collections were his anticipations to an aesthetics he was exploring for his new position [or as I call it: his CD portfolio collections with which he might have wanted to impress, with success, his future employers. In his latest Haute Couture catwalk show for FW 2015||16 Raf Simons unveils some nostalgia regarding a certain attitude an color shown on the runway [right].</div>
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I love how Marc Jacobs continuously declares his love for Miuccia Prada. Appreciation from one designer to another is certainly not a common thing in the fashion world. Through his Resort SS||2016 collection [right] Marc makes once again [<b><i><a href="http://www.intothefashion.com/2014/01/inspiration-prada-resort-2014-marc.html" target="_blank">click here </a></i></b>for another example] a non-verbal and more visible homage to Miuccia and her Prada FW 2012||13 runway [left]. <span class="s1">Though one might not be able to detect a similarity in every single outfit, overall you can feel the Prada vibe in the garments, the meticulous embellishment, the styling and even that catwalk. </span></div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-41064617736227875202015-07-05T10:33:00.003+02:002015-07-05T10:36:43.935+02:00INTO THE ARCHIVES… Miu Miu [various seasons] and Miu Miu resort SS||2016<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Miuccia Prada has presented yesterday her Miu Miu resort 2016 collection [all rights] in Paris, which exhibited an unusual mix of best of patterns from past collections. There were the Miu Miu SS|| 2010 nude and swallow patterns [left above], a deja vu of the SS||2011 ‘American Graffiti’ leather jacket motifs [left center] and the birds of the FW 2011||12 40ties inspired collection [left bottom]. I’d love to know the reason to present the spirit of the past so strongly in this collection,... a Miuccia mystery!</div>
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Alber Elbaz might have been inspired by Geoffrey Beene [left, photographed by Guzman] to create beautiful leather accessories for his recent Lanvin collection [right]. But also it is possible that he has created them in the first place since Alber was working for Geoffrey Beene in New York between 1985 and 1992. </div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-5175900584064780112015-05-18T23:39:00.001+02:002015-05-18T23:45:17.571+02:00THANK YOU ZARA!… Prada SS||2015 and Zara SS||2015<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Miuccia Prada’s 70ties inspired collection included of course some typical and characteristic footwear of that decade: the clog [left], available in Prada stores right now for 850 Euro. If you want to get the look for only 79,95 Euro [right] <b><i><a href="http://www.zara.com/it/en/woman/shoes/view-all/leather-clogs-c719531p2511561.html" target="_blank">click here </a></i></b>and order them from the fast fashion chain Zara. Thank you Zara! </div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-50561553061141066192015-05-12T09:31:00.000+02:002015-05-12T09:33:40.656+02:00INSPIRATION Gucci FW 1996||97… Mugler FW 2015||16<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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Some garments are just made to remain icons of fashion. How can you not remember the long and lean white gown with a delicately placed hole and Elsa Peretti–esque hardware. This dress created by Tom Ford for Gucci FW 1996||97 [left, AD photographed by Mario Testino] evoked a bit of a Gernreich here and a Halston feeling there and was incredebly sexy. A similar sexiness and design approach can be find in the latest Mugler FW 2015||16 collection designed by the British designer David Koma [right].</div>
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This delightful foliole motive [left] has been sketched personally by Italian fashion designer Francesco Scognamiglio, who later transformed this design in various embroideries for his SS||2015 collection. Nicolas Ghesquière and his team might have liked it just as much and a similar leaf motif appeared as a print version yesterday at the Louis Vuitton Cruise 2016 collection in Palm Springs [right]. Great job Francesco!</div>
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The Chanel FW 2015||16 collection was Karl Lagerfeld’s vision of France from a stranger who thinks France is not that bad. This vision included also to analyse the typical lunch- dinner- aperitif setting of a Parisian: the brasserie. The Brasserie Gabrielle was the theme to the staging of the show at Chanel’s traditional location at the Grand Palais. On the runway appeared an unusual red tartan check on a austere- futuristic styled model that resembled very much the Otto Dix painting of the journalist Sylvia von Harden, having an aperitif in a place that looks like a brasserie. I just love that painting and the fierce face expression of Sylvia, who like me and Karl Lagerfeld, was originally from Hamburg.</div>
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Into the Fashionhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02365137311051820687noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5248949202806639512.post-12979533512386492262015-04-19T19:47:00.002+02:002015-04-19T19:49:35.577+02:00INTO THE ARCHIVES…. Rochas 1934 and Rochas FW 2015||16<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">
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For the maison's 90th birthday Alessandro dell’Acqua has decided to celebrate Marcel Rochas by resuscitating a heritage bird motive of black swallows [left] on a white sheer silk dress [right] for his latest FW2015||16 collection. </div>
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