Rodolfo Paglialunga has been the head of Jil Sander for two years now and in my opinion he, together with Raf Simons, is one of the creative directors who understand Jiline’s design DNA. But is he already out of original ideas? The faux pas to get so close [right] to one of fashion’s most recognisable designs: the Pleats Please of Issey Miyake [left], comes quiet as a surprise. So far only fast fashion houses dared to copy this Japanese creation, first launched in 1993. Made from single pieces of high quality 100% polyester fabric, the innovation behind Pleats Please is that clothes are first cut and sewn together two-and-a-half to three times larger than the finished garments. Individual pieces are hand-fed into a heat press sandwiched between two sheets of paper. The garment then emerges with permanent pleats.