Saturday, October 17, 2015

INSPIRATION Francesco Scognamiglio SS|| 2015… Balmain SS||2016

For some time now I'm noticing some resemblance between the collections of these two designers. Just that Francesco Scognamiglio is always some seasons ahead with his designs. Once again [click here] I have found a very strong similarity between the designs of Scognamiglio [left] and the ones from Balmain [right]. Olivier Rousting must really like his body of work, but we all know ‘Italians do it better!’

Sunday, October 11, 2015

INSPIRATION 'The Birth' by Leigh Bowery... Rick Owens SS||2016

The performance 'The Birth' by legendary Leigh Bowery and his wife Nicola Bateman [left] might have been an inspiration to Rick Owens SS||2016 collection [right], a tribute to female strength. In his show women were carrying other women in a beautiful physical symbiosis that wanted to express selflessness, community and supportiveness. Very different from Leigh’s concept of parturition, but visually very similar.

Saturday, October 3, 2015

INTO THE ARCHIVES... Balenciaga SS||2006 and Balenciaga SS||2016

Well, this collection might be an exploration for Alexander Wang, but more likely into the archives and work of Nicoloas Ghesquière for Balenciaga [left]. From BoF by Tim Blanks:  ‘This could have been a lame duck collection for Alexander Wang, but that wasn’t the way he approached it at all. “Let’s do something people would expect least,” he told himself. Ruffles, lace, feathers, “things no one associates with me, things I’ve always wanted to venture into, like romanticism, sensuality, overt femininity,” an ebullient Wang declared after his Balenciaga send-off on Friday [right].' 

Monday, September 21, 2015

INSPIRATION Rochas FW 2015||16... J.W. Anderson SS||2016

The wonderful show of J.W. Anderson, presented this week in London, showed some remarkable volumes and shapes, including enormous mutton sleeves and oversized bra details adorned with fluffy ruches [right]. A similar bra design appeared already last season in Alessandro Dell'Acqua's Rochas opening outfit [right]. There might be a trend starting....

Sunday, August 9, 2015

INSPIRATION Jil Sander FW 2012||13… Christian Dior HC FW 2015||16

I loved the 50ties inspired collections Raf Simons has created in the last seasons as creative director at Jil Sander [left]. Once he had left and moved forward to Christian Dior it seemed clear that those collections were his anticipations to an aesthetics he was exploring for his new position [or as I call it: his CD portfolio collections with which he might have wanted to impress, with success,  his future employers. In his latest Haute Couture catwalk show for FW 2015||16 Raf Simons unveils some nostalgia regarding a certain attitude an color shown on the runway [right].

Thursday, July 30, 2015

INSPIRATION Prada FW 2012||13… Marc Jacobs Resort SS||2016

I love how Marc Jacobs continuously declares his love for Miuccia Prada. Appreciation from one designer to another is certainly not a common thing in the fashion world. Through his Resort SS||2016 collection [right] Marc makes once again [click here for another example] a non-verbal and more visible homage to Miuccia and her Prada FW 2012||13 runway [left]. Though one might not be able to detect a similarity in every single outfit, overall you can feel the Prada vibe in the garments, the meticulous embellishment, the styling and even that catwalk. 

Sunday, July 5, 2015

INTO THE ARCHIVES… Miu Miu [various seasons] and Miu Miu resort SS||2016

Miuccia Prada has presented yesterday her Miu Miu resort 2016 collection [all rights] in Paris, which exhibited an unusual mix of best of patterns from past collections. There were the Miu Miu SS|| 2010 nude and swallow patterns [left above], a deja vu of the SS||2011 ‘American Graffiti’ leather jacket motifs [left center] and the birds of the FW 2011||12 40ties inspired collection [left bottom]. I’d love to know the reason to present the spirit of the past so strongly in this collection,... a Miuccia mystery!