Massimo Giorgetti for Emilio Pucci, has plenty of archive material to play with, and that is what he has been doing since appointed creative director of the Italian heritage brand [LVMH] in 2015. For the location of his pre-fall collection FW 20116||17 shoot [right] he also got inspired by an iconic photograph from 1967 [left]. This picture, showing a group of models wearing the distinctive Pucci patterns, has been taken on the rooftop of palazzo Pucci by Philippe Le Tellier with the background being the Santa Maria del Fiore cathedral.
Sunday, January 17, 2016
Saturday, October 17, 2015
For some time now I'm noticing some resemblance between the collections of these two designers. Just that Francesco Scognamiglio is always some seasons ahead with his designs. Once again [click here] I have found a very strong similarity between the designs of Scognamiglio [left] and the ones from Balmain [right]. Olivier Rousting must really like his body of work, but we all know ‘Italians do it better!’
Sunday, October 11, 2015
The performance 'The Birth' by legendary Leigh Bowery and his wife Nicola Bateman [left] might have been an inspiration to Rick Owens SS||2016 collection [right], a tribute to female strength. In his show women were carrying other women in a beautiful physical symbiosis that wanted to express selflessness, community and supportiveness. Very different from Leigh’s concept of parturition, but visually very similar.
Saturday, October 3, 2015
Well, this collection might be an exploration for Alexander Wang, but more likely into the archives and work of Nicoloas Ghesquière for Balenciaga [left]. From BoF by Tim Blanks: ‘This could have been a lame duck collection for Alexander Wang, but that wasn’t the way he approached it at all. “Let’s do something people would expect least,” he told himself. Ruffles, lace, feathers, “things no one associates with me, things I’ve always wanted to venture into, like romanticism, sensuality, overt femininity,” an ebullient Wang declared after his Balenciaga send-off on Friday [right].'
Monday, September 21, 2015
The wonderful show of J.W. Anderson, presented this week in London, showed some remarkable volumes and shapes, including enormous mutton sleeves and oversized bra details adorned with fluffy ruches [right]. A similar bra design appeared already last season in Alessandro Dell'Acqua's Rochas opening outfit [right]. There might be a trend starting....
Sunday, August 9, 2015
I loved the 50ties inspired collections Raf Simons has created in the last seasons as creative director at Jil Sander [left]. Once he had left and moved forward to Christian Dior it seemed clear that those collections were his anticipations to an aesthetics he was exploring for his new position [or as I call it: his CD portfolio collections with which he might have wanted to impress, with success, his future employers. In his latest Haute Couture catwalk show for FW 2015||16 Raf Simons unveils some nostalgia regarding a certain attitude an color shown on the runway [right].
Thursday, July 30, 2015
I love how Marc Jacobs continuously declares his love for Miuccia Prada. Appreciation from one designer to another is certainly not a common thing in the fashion world. Through his Resort SS||2016 collection [right] Marc makes once again [click here for another example] a non-verbal and more visible homage to Miuccia and her Prada FW 2012||13 runway [left]. Though one might not be able to detect a similarity in every single outfit, overall you can feel the Prada vibe in the garments, the meticulous embellishment, the styling and even that catwalk.