Friday, April 24, 2015

INSPIRATION Otto Dix 1926… Chanel FW 2015||16

The Chanel FW 2015||16 collection was Karl  Lagerfeld’s vision of France from a stranger who thinks France is not that bad. This vision included also to analyse the typical lunch- dinner- aperitif  setting of a Parisian: the brasserie. The Brasserie Gabrielle was the theme to the staging of the show at Chanel’s traditional location at the Grand Palais. On the runway appeared an unusual red tartan check  on a austere- futuristic styled model that resembled very much the Otto Dix painting of the journalist Sylvia von Harden, having an aperitif in a place that looks like a brasserie. I just love that painting and the fierce face expression of Sylvia, who like me and Karl Lagerfeld, was originally  from Hamburg.

Sunday, April 19, 2015

INTO THE ARCHIVES…. Rochas 1934 and Rochas FW 2015||16

For the maison's 90th birthday Alessandro dell’Acqua has decided to celebrate Marcel Rochas by resuscitating a heritage bird motive of black swallows [left] on a white sheer silk dress [right] for his latest FW2015||16 collection. 

Tuesday, April 7, 2015

INSPIRATION Christian Dior HC SS||2015... Versace FW 2015||16

This look from the last Christian Dior Haute Couture show [left] with its over knee patent leather boots was part of a reminder of the cheep hooker outfit Julia Roberts wore in 1990 in 'Pretty Woman" [click here]. Also Donatella Versace for FW 2015||16 thought this aesthetic is ready for a comeback [right]. Important is the use of the right nuance of the über sexy red of the patent leather.  

Wednesday, April 1, 2015

INSPIRATION Lady Esquire Instant Shoe Colouring AD 1974… Valentino FW 2015||16 pre-collection

This very amusing advertisement from the seventies [left] features a pair of boots that are identical to the ones of Valentino for FW 2015||16 pre-collection [right]. I’m wondering if those boots from the seventies are Valentino’s too. 

Tuesday, March 17, 2015

INTO THE SAME IDEA… Dries van Noten and Marc Jacobs FW 2015||16

The Victorian vibe of  this years most stylish tv series ‘The Knick”  might not only left an impression on Thom Browne for FW 2015||16 [see previous post]. The wonderfully dark deluxe bohemia mood has been seen also on other catwalks such as Dries van Noten [left] and Mark Jacobs [right], who exhibited beautiful Victorian redingote coats with an ideal hourglass silhouette worn over floor-scraping skirts. It did not take much for Marc Jacobs to come back to this time period since the 1980ties have been also an inspiration for his SS||2014 collection.

Sunday, March 15, 2015

INSPIRATION ‘The Knick”… Thom Browne FW 2015||16

Nobody creates deviant and disturbing ideas like Thom Browne, making them theatrically and visually irresistible. The setting of his last show was a Victorian funeral, with models dressed in white lying down on stretchers, together with flawless guardian angels, while a group of very elegant ladies attended the funeral with an exquisite total black look [right]. The inspiration for this tableaux vivant he might have gotten from the tv series ‘The Knick”. The series, featuring Clive Owen and directed by Steven Soderbergh, illustrates the professional and personal life of surgeons and nurses of the Knickerbocker Hospital in New York around 1900 [left]. The location of the Knick OR looks just like the Thom Browne installation. 

Saturday, March 7, 2015

INSPIRATION Viktor&Rolf FW 2008||09… Moschino FW 2015||16

Jeremy Scott, for his own line and now as creative director of Moschino, draws many many many inspirations from the most various designs created previously by others [stay tuned for future posts]. One thing must be said thought… he really just gets inspired by the very best creators of fashion. This time for example he might have liked the 3D pop out statements of Viktor&Rolf’s ’No” collection for FW 2008||09, like the  ‘Dream On” one [left]... For Moschino this translates in a huge logo lettering detail on a bag [right].