Sunday, November 16, 2014

INSPIRATION Yves Saint Laurent 1964… Rochas SS||2015

The layers of garments and accessories it took to create a single outfit seemed to be crucial to make an overstatement of sweetness in the last Rochas collection, designed by Alessandro dell’Acqua. For example, in this outfit [right] two delicate dresses were held together under a ruffle layer by a webbed military belt with a ‘R” for Rochas buckle. The poetry of exaggeration combined with the exquisiteness of an extra-high silhouette. Less complicated but with a similar romantic outcome is this Yves Saint Laurent dress, photographed on Antonia by William Klein in 1964 [right]. 

Monday, November 10, 2014

INTO THE ARCHIVES… Christian Dior 1951 and Christian Dior Haute Couture FW 2014||15

‘Raf Simons is not a designer obsessed with the past. He leaves the decade- hopping to his peers, preferring instead to look ahead.” reviewed Nicole Phelps for after the last Dior couture show. I generally agree with this statement, but just recently I stumbled upon a picture that might give a different perspective. A white Christian Dior dress from 1951 with insect like embellishments [left] shows color and silhouette similarities to Christian Dior Haute Couture by Raf Simons for FW 2014||15 [right].

Friday, November 7, 2014

THANK YOU ZARA!… Prada FW 2010||11 and Zara FW 2014||15

Everybody in fashion knows and loves the memorable scene in ’The devil wears Prada” in which is explained the Trickle-down theory of trends [to read the transcript of the whole scene click here]. The practical example chosen by Miranda Priestly to explain the Trickle-down structure, was the cerulean sweater her intern Andrea was wearing. It was therefore very funny that a few years later Prada [left] actually included a similar sweater in their FW 2010||11 collection, and even funnier is the fact that the trickle-down effect just completed itself by being proposed by Zara for FW2014||15 [right]. But since we are already at it: Oscar della Renta has not shown in 2002 cerulean gowns and neither has Yves Saint Laurent followed this color lead by proposing cerulean military jackets. 

Monday, October 27, 2014

INSPIRATION Pierre Cardin 1968... Miu Miu FW 2010||11

One of my favorite collections of Miu Miu is the FW 2010||11 'summer of love" one, featuring many beautiful volumes and details inspired by the 60ties. The inspiration for the little orange outfit [right] might have been a 1968 A-line mini-dress [left] that shows similarities in texture, color, neckline, top stitching and metallic details. 

Sunday, October 26, 2014

INSPIRATION Gianni Versace... Fausto Puglisi SS||2015

This post is more than obvious, I know. By now everybody has realised that Fausto Puglisi is and has and probably always will be inspired by the work of Gianni Versace. Season after season he shows looks, shapes, details or patterns that recall collections once made by the House of Versace and his late designer. For his latest SS||2015 show [all rights] Fausto Puglisi liked especially looks worn by the supermodel Linda Evangelista [all lefts].

Thursday, October 23, 2014

INSPIRATION Jil Sander SS||2011... Dsquared SS||2015

One of my favorite Raf Simons for Jil Sander collections is the SS||2011 one in which he explored his talent for ultramodern couture, which we enjoy to see in his collaboration with Dior. That season he sent down the runway a very glamorous yet understated styling by mixing a long peplum skirt with a simple white t-shirt [left]. Dean and Dan Caten for SS||2015 confirm that blending couture with casual is indeed a great idea [right].

Saturday, October 11, 2014

INSPIRATION Missoni FW 2014||15… Burberry Prorsum SS||2015

Missoni's 'Strategic Naturalness" collection for FW 2014||15 was filled with countless beautiful material experimentations of geometric patchworks and knit-intarsias. One eye-catcher was this 100% cashmere dress with an ultramodern color and material blocking design, that brought together different ribbed knits and a Palladiana marble motif [left]. Another visually similar pattern has been proposed by Christopher Bailey for Burberry Prorsum SS||2015 on a light linen dress [right].