Sunday, June 26, 2016

INSPIRATION Francesco Scognamiglio FW 2016||17... Christian Dior pre SS||2017

Christian Dior has finally found its new creative director. Maria Grazia Chiuri of Valentino has been named, becoming the first woman to lead the brand in its 70 year history. It was about time, since Christian Dior’s womenswear collections have suffered after the departure of Raf Simons. The recent pre SS||2017 collection [right] for example showed some similarities to jackets designed by the Francesco Scognamiglio the season before [left]. Scognamiglio is an amazing Italian designer who will debut his first Haute Couture show next week in Paris.

Sunday, March 6, 2016

INTO THE SAME IDEA... Prada and Loewe FW 2016||17

Miuccia Prada [left] and Jonathan Anderson for Loewe [right] elevate handbags to a new status level and to the ultimate accessory by making it a piece of jewellery. Not longer to hold in our hands or dangling from our wrists, for FW 2016||17 the two designers propose to wear purses as carefully crafted and adorned pendants, considerably sized, on short necklaces. As if we needed another reason to buy bags...

Sunday, January 17, 2016

INSPIRATION Emilio Pucci 1967... Emilio Pucci FW 2016||17 pre-collection

Massimo Giorgetti for Emilio Pucci, has plenty of archive material to play with, and that is what he has been doing since appointed creative director of the Italian heritage brand [LVMH] in 2015. For the location of his pre-fall collection FW 20116||17 shoot [right] he also got inspired by an iconic photograph from 1967 [left]. This picture, showing a group of models wearing the distinctive Pucci patterns, has been taken on the rooftop of palazzo Pucci by Philippe Le Tellier with the background being the Santa Maria del Fiore cathedral.

Saturday, October 17, 2015

INSPIRATION Francesco Scognamiglio SS|| 2015… Balmain SS||2016

For some time now I'm noticing some resemblance between the collections of these two designers. Just that Francesco Scognamiglio is always some seasons ahead with his designs. Once again [click here] I have found a very strong similarity between the designs of Scognamiglio [left] and the ones from Balmain [right]. Olivier Rousting must really like his body of work, but we all know ‘Italians do it better!’

Sunday, October 11, 2015

INSPIRATION 'The Birth' by Leigh Bowery... Rick Owens SS||2016

The performance 'The Birth' by legendary Leigh Bowery and his wife Nicola Bateman [left] might have been an inspiration to Rick Owens SS||2016 collection [right], a tribute to female strength. In his show women were carrying other women in a beautiful physical symbiosis that wanted to express selflessness, community and supportiveness. Very different from Leigh’s concept of parturition, but visually very similar.

Saturday, October 3, 2015

INTO THE ARCHIVES... Balenciaga SS||2006 and Balenciaga SS||2016

Well, this collection might be an exploration for Alexander Wang, but more likely into the archives and work of Nicoloas Ghesquière for Balenciaga [left]. From BoF by Tim Blanks:  ‘This could have been a lame duck collection for Alexander Wang, but that wasn’t the way he approached it at all. “Let’s do something people would expect least,” he told himself. Ruffles, lace, feathers, “things no one associates with me, things I’ve always wanted to venture into, like romanticism, sensuality, overt femininity,” an ebullient Wang declared after his Balenciaga send-off on Friday [right].' 

Monday, September 21, 2015

INSPIRATION Rochas FW 2015||16... J.W. Anderson SS||2016

The wonderful show of J.W. Anderson, presented this week in London, showed some remarkable volumes and shapes, including enormous mutton sleeves and oversized bra details adorned with fluffy ruches [right]. A similar bra design appeared already last season in Alessandro Dell'Acqua's Rochas opening outfit [right]. There might be a trend starting....