Tuesday, January 27, 2015

INSPIRATION Missoni SS||2014... Christian Dior Haute Couture SS||2015

Raf Simons for his SS||2015 Haute Couture collection has gotten inspired by David Bowie and the 60ties, but not only. The hairstyle with integrated hair jewellery, created for this occasion by Guido Palau [right], resembled very much the Missoni double ponytail by Eugene Souleiman from SS||2014 [left].




Sunday, January 25, 2015

NEW ENTRIES...

Before starting the new womenswear FW 2015||16 season let's remember all the new creative directors...

GUCCI
Alessandro Michele

VERSUS
Anthony Vaccarello

OSCAR DELLA RENTA
Peter Copping 
(ex Nina Ricci)

NINA RICCI
Guillaume Henry
(ex Carven)

MAISON MARGIELA
John Galliano

HERMÈS
Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski
(ex The Row)

SONIA RYKIEL
Julie De Libran

LOEWE
Jonathan Anderson 

Monday, January 19, 2015

INTO THE ARCHIVES... Gianni Versace 1987 and Versace FW 2015||16 PRE

This beautiful color blocking outfit designed by Gianni Versace in 1987, worn by Christy Turlington in an advertisement photographed by Richard Avedon [left], might have been an inspiration to Donatella Versace's Pre Fall 2015||16 collection [right].


Friday, January 16, 2015

INSPIRATION Jean Patou 1969... Chanel Resort SS||2014

I just have found this image from L'Officiel magazine from 1969 featuring some designs from Jean Patou [left]. How can one not immediately think of Chanel. But there is more. These outfits do not only resembled to the designs of Coco Chanel but also to this Chanel retro collection for Resort 2014 designed by Karl Lagerfeld [right]. Fun fact: Karl Lagerfeld was designing for Jean Patou from 1958 to 1963.




Monday, January 5, 2015

THANK YOU ZARA!… Saint Laurent FW 2014||15 and Zara TRF FW 2014||15

The Spanish fast fashion retailer Zara strikes once again on Saint Laurent [click here for a previous example]. Thank you Zara, but what does this fact tells us about Hedi Slimane?
In French it is easy to get confused between the word fashion designer and stylist, since the words sound and look very similar [styliste and stylist]. Maybe Hedi Slimane got confused too. In the last seasons for Saint Laurent he has proven to be a tremendous stylist, creating amazing looks to which many young clients can relate to, but maybe less of a great fashion designer; in terms of womenswear he recreates previously existed aesthetics, while in his menswear collection he just recreates previous garments he already has done for for Dior Homme. I struggle to see newness in his designs or to see a design vision or even innovation of whatever nature. Like a stylist he knows very well the language of fashion, the meaning of every aesthetic and style existed, and he plays rather wisely with it. But being his strength the styling and not the design makes it very easy to reproduce Saint Laurent looks [all lefts] by fast fashion chains like Topshop or Zara [all rights]. If an influential and successful creative director like Hedi Slimane is not really creating anything new, nor an interesting new point of view on fashion makes me wonder if RTW is getting spiritually [not price wise of course] a little bit too close to the fast fashion market. Is this the right way to deal with this competition? I’d love to see RTW rise and move more far away from fast fashion, not the other way around. 


Thursday, January 1, 2015

INTO THE SAME IDEA... Céline and Stella McCartney SS||2015

The British design duo strikes again. There are only a few cases, I can say by now, in which we will not find similarities between the collections of Céline by Phoebe Philo and Stella McCartney [click here and then click here for other examples]. Somehow the two manage always to have one or two outfits in the collection that kinda look alike. Let's remember that both have worked previously for Chloé, first together and when Stella took of to start her own label Phoebe took her place as creative director. This time for SS||2015 they both thought: sleeveless knitwear styles in light hues with peekaboo holes on the waistlines and outfits in midnight blue with peekaboo circle and half circle holes, Céline [all lefts] and Stella McCartney [all rights].



Tuesday, December 23, 2014

INSPIRATION Vogue UK 1972… Chanel Resort 2013


This beauty photo shoot by Peter Knapp, featuring the wonderful Louise Despointes [left], was published in the June issue of the British Vogue. I looks like it might have been an inspiration for Karl Lagerfeld’s ‘Rococo” Chanel Resort 2013 collection [right], venued beautifully in Versailles. These two pictures have such a similar atmosphere that it seems they have been taken in the same occasion.