Jean Patou (1880-1936) retained his popularity during the Depression by catering to the Paris and New York elite, and as cocktail gatherings became more exclusive, so too did Patou's creations. The designer became so enamored of private cocktail affairs that he created custom-made "Cocktail" perfumes that were sold in a "Bar" scent box to his couture clientele. He was credited with pioneering the shortened skirt for both daytime and early evening, and was consistently celebrated alongside Chanel for innovations in sportswear fabrics and separates styling. He was also known for his sweaters with Cubist designs. He was very much influenced by Art Deco and Cubism, creating sharp geometric shapes and patterns in his fabrics. In 1925 he introduced his first perfumes Amour-Amour, for brunettes, Que Sais-je for blondes, and Adieu Sagesse for redheads. In 1929, he added Le Sien, a sports fragrance, and in 1931 his most famous Joy, still one of the great perfumes of the world. He later launched "1000" , Sublime and Eau de Patou. His perfume JOY is always advertised as "The most costly perfume in the world".
